Victoria: The Capital of British Columbia

Victoria is an intimate, sophisticated seaside city in British Columbia’s capital city, and one of the top tourist destinations in the Pacific Northwest. It is situated on the southern tip of Vancouver Island, and enjoys one of Canada’s mildest climates. In terms of environment and lifestyle, the area boasts the sunniest spot in the province and an image of genteel civility.

Victoria’s unique character is deeply rooted in its 150+ year history, having been incorporated as a city in 1862, politically united with the mainland in 1866, and named the provincial capital when British Columbia joined the Canadian Confederation in 1871. The city’s British Colonial heritage is still very much in evidence, but contemporary Victoria has a distinctly Pacific Northwest flavor.

With our long journey about to end, Joanna spent the day packing three months of belongings and clothing (for every season and activity imaginable, plus all the dressier outfits for 92 dinners – including about 20 formal nights), while John got out of her hair and went to explore the area. Here are pictures of Joanna’s accomplishments (so you can see how much luggage is required for a 92-day journey, although two of the largest crates were already picked up at this point to be shipped ahead!).

Also shown are John’s tranquil pictures of his relaxing afternoon at the Butchart Gardens. These spectacular gardens began in 1904 when Jennie Butchart decided to beautify a limestone quarry used for her family’s cement business. Today, this 50-acre estate features extraordinary themed gardens known as the Sunken, Italian, Rose and Japanese Gardens. It is a must-see when in Victoria.

The final photo on this entry is our last sunset aboard this long journey on the Silver Shadow, taken as we had dinner alone together in the evening. We disembark in Vancouver in the morning.

Cruising the Inside Passage

The Inside Passage of the Alaska Panhandle and coastal British Columbia is a coastal route for oceangoing vessels along a series of passages between the mainland and the coastal islands. Ships using the route can avoid some of the bad weather in the open ocean, and visit the many isolated communities along the journey. It is heavily travelled by cruise ships, freighters, tugs with tows, fishing craft and ships.

The Alaskan portion of the Inside Passage, in the north, extends 500 miles from north to south, and 100 miles from east to west. The area encompasses 1,000 islands, 15,000 miles of shoreline and thousands of coves and bays. British Columbia’s southern portion of the route is of similar extent, with up to 25,000 miles of coastline, and includes the narrow, protected Strait of Georgia between Vancouver Island and the B.C. mainland, the Johnstone and Queen Charlotte Straits between Vancouver Island and the mainland, as well as the wider and more exposed Hecate Strait near the Queen Charlotte Islands.



The Inside Passage is a destination for kayakers and canoeists from all over the world. Each year, groups and individuals paddle along the fjords from British Columbia to Glacier Bay in Alaska.

These are our last sights of Alaska and tomorrow we arrive in Victoria, British Columbia.

A Spectacular Crabfest in Ketchikan, Alaska

On Thursday (6/4) we arrived in Ketchikan, Alaska, located on the western coast of Revillagigedo Island, near the southernmost coast of Alaska. The Tlingit Indians originally settled this area as a summer fishing camp, where five different species of salmon spawn every year. By the mid-1930’s, Ketchikan had aptly named itself the “Salmon Capital of the World.” In 1936 alone, the city packed more than 1.5 million cases of salmon.

Ketchikan is now also a charming Alaskan tourist town and a paradise for sport fishermen and naturalists alike. During the summer months, the town bustles with visitors from all over the world. An outstanding collection of totem poles, the world’s largest, make a visit to Ketchikan essential for anyone interested in Native art. Ketchikan’s name supposedly comes from the native term “Katch Kanna,” which roughly translates to “spread wings of a thundering eagle.”


It was yet another gorgeous day and we took a floatplane tour over the spectacular scenery of rain forests, glaciers and lakes (as shown above). The plane landed at Georges Inlet (see right), a remote lodge on a mountainous lake. There we were treated to a bountiful Dungeness crab feast which made our last stop in Alaska a very memorable experience. The flight back to the ship was equally enjoyable.

We then had time to take a pleasant walk in the rustic waterfront Creek Street shopping area (shown at immediate right), and of course do some damage.

Cruising Endicott Arm and Dawes Glacier

The ship's planned itinerary for Wednesday was to spend the day sailing the Tracy Arm Fjord, a narrow and curvy waterway in southeast Alaska, to see the stunning Sawyer Glacier. However, en route we discovered that Tracy Arm was clogged by many icebergs that the glacier had calved (glacier term for the ice cracking, breaking off, and dropping into the water). Thus, it made the fjord impassable and we had to turn back.

The Captain quickly came up with another plan to cruise down the Endicott Arm Fjord toward the Dawes Glacier. Both Tracy Arm and Endicott Arm both meet in Holkman Bay which flows out to Stephens Passage. However, contrary to Tracy Arm, the Endicott Arm is nice and straight, so when the glacier calves, the icebergs have somewhere to flow and not get all stopped up. We sailed down the 27 miles through the Endicott Arm, viewing the beautiful scenery of the coastal mountains and the ice flowing past.

At the end of the Endicott Arm, we reached the massive Dawes Glacier (photo below right).

The face of the glacier has an elevation of 2,375 feet, and despite its visual size, much of the glacier is submerged underwater. Dawes Glacier is a very active glacier and it calves immense amounts of ice into the fjord (like those above left). Occasionally, the ship would hit an iceberg and visions of the Titanic would flash in our heads.

We spent the afternoon transiting northbound back out of the Endicott Arm to Stephens Passage, with of the benefit of getting a second look at this dramatic landscape.

Sitka, Alaska

Sitka is one of the most extensive cities in Alaska, with a land area of about 2,882 square miles. It began as an important Tlingit Indian village and was called Shee At’ika, which translates roughly as “settlement on the outside of Shee”). In 1799, Alexander Baranof of the Russian American Company, a colonial trading company, decided to set up camp at what is now called Old Sitka, about 7.5 miles north of the present day town. The Tlingit Indians resisted the occupation and, in 1802, with Baranof away, burned the fort and massacred the Russian settlers. Two years later, Baranof returned and besieged the Indian fort. The Tlingits redrew and the Russians built a new city on a different site and called it New Archangel.

For over six decades, New Archangel was the capital of the Russian empire in Alaska. But by 1867, the Alaska colony had become too much of a financial burden to Russia, and the U.S. negotiated its purchase in the amount of $7.2 million for the entire Territory of Alaska (this equated to about 2 cents per acre). Sitka remained the capital of the US Territory of Alaska from 1867 to 1906, when it was moved to Juneau. The move was a direct result of the gold rush. In plain terms, Sitka did not have any gold and Juneau did.

We spent the day on a wildlife quest aboard an expedition catamaran that permitted us to explore areas unreachable by conventional boat. We were dropped off on a remote island (Frosty Reef) to see the colorful tide pools and marine life (at which time we were all given whistles around our necks in case we were approached by a bear…the discomforting concept was to run TOWARD anyone blowing the whistle as there is supposedly “safety in numbers.” Fortunately, no whistles were blown)!

We were delighted, however, to spot whales, dolphins and sea otters en route to and from the reef. With eagle eyes, our ranger also spotted several large brown bears onshore another island and we pulled up close to observe. We enjoyed immensely, but photo opportunities were not so great. Guess you all have to do this for yourselves…

The capital of Alaska: Juneau

We arrived Monday morning in Juneau, Alaska. Considered by many to be the nation’s most beautiful capital city, it is famous for its spectacular mountains, glaciers, fjords, lakes and wildlife. The town is nestled in the rain forest where the mountains meet the sea amidst the 17 million acre Tongass National Forest, and a 1,500 square mile ice field.

Juneau is one of only two state capitals in the country not accessible by road; however, it is the second largest city, in area, in the United States. Its terrain is hilly, and its winding, narrow streets are filled with character. It is a quaint, yet sophisticated, town that is rich in Native culture and gold-mining history.

It was a gorgeous day and we took a helicopter tour over the lush rain forest and mountains, with the pilot getting up close to explore the deep blue crevasses and glacier-carved peaks. Our destination was the Alaska Icefield dog camp located at the Mendenhall Glacier’s 3,500 foot level. As the helicopter approached the camp and set down, it seemed like we were landing on another planet. There were 240 dog houses and tents for 18 people on a massive icefield surrounded by huge mountains. The people are professional mushers and live there six days a week to take care of the dogs, without running water, electricity, or cell phones.

The snow was 25 feet deep on the icefield and we witnessed several small avalanches before we were introduced to our musher, Joe. Joe in turn introduced us to the 11 dogs that would be pulling our sled (the other dogs were jealous and barking like crazy). We then set out on a spectacular journey across the icefield, and the camp at times seemed like a little dot in the distance. It was an exhilarating experience to be swept along the snow by these strong dogs, and to see that they enjoyed it as much as we did. To sum it up, John says it was a highlight of the trip and one on the best days of his life.

Skagway and the White Pass & Yukon Railroad

Skagway is one of the oldest towns in Alaska. It is located in a narrow glaciated valley at the head of the Taiya Inlet at the north end of the Lynn Canal (95 air miles north of Juneau). The population of the city today is less than 1,000, but it doubles in the summer season to deal with about 900,000 visitors.

Skagway played a key role in the dramatic Klondike Gold Rush of 1897-1898. For several hectic months, uncounted thousands poured through its streets on their way north. They were headed for Dawson City, more than 500 miles inland. Conditions were so rigorous that fewer than half of those who arrived in Skagway reached the gold fields. As a rough-and-tumble frontier port, Skagway boasted more than 80 saloons; gun play was common and the town was controlled by a gang of organized criminals. Civilization arrived when the White Pass and Yukon Railroad Company began constructing its railroad in May 1989, and it advanced when the criminal element was purged two months later.

The White Pass & Yukon Railroad emerged as a result of the difficult trails and hazards encountered trekking inland in search of gold. Building the 110 miles of track was a challenge in every way. Construction required navigating cliff-hanging turns and building numerous tunnels, bridges and trestles. Thirty-five thousand men worked on the railroad’s construction, and it was completed in less than two years (however, by that time the gold rush was over).

We took a four-hour adventure on this legendary “Scenic Railway of the World” to take in the panoramic vistas of mountains, glaciers, gorges, waterfalls, tunnels and trestles. It was a beautiful sunny day with temperatures in the sixties, so that added to the enjoyment. Afterward, we went into town (which looks like an old movie set), and stopped in the must-see Red Onion Saloon, where the madams are dressed to create the scene of an old brothel.
Sailing out of the valley where Skagway is located was a spectacular site, and we saw many whales and dolphins. The moon was also a vision to see later at night over the water in complete blackness...