Roland on the River

Our Final Port of Call: Vancouver

2009-06-09T01:34:00.000-07:00

We stayed up late on Saturday night to bid farewell to many of our fellow passengers, and to the 280 Silversea crew members, from 24 countries, who took such phenomenal care of us during this long journey. There were many emotional goodbyes (Joanna is not good as this sort of thing, she cries in the airport when she sees two strangers saying goodbye). But seriously, it has been an incredible trip from start to finish, with exciting destinations, fabulous weather, and many new friends. So it is no wonder that there were mixed feelings (and some tears) when disembarking the ship on Sunday morning…our home (and private yacht it seemed) for the last three months.

It is although we have been on a dream journey and REALITY sets in quickly. We checked into the Fairmount Waterfront Hotel across from the dock (note: we still needed a waterfront room) as we were not set to fly home to New York until Monday. Our goal was to get out to explore Vancouver for the day and we managed to do just that. After walking around the many quaint streets and shops, we went to Stanley Park (a beautiful thousand acre park) and had a lovely lunch at the famous Fish House restaurant.

We walked around some more along the waterfront (seeing some interesting houseboats, at right), and timed it just right, or perhaps wrong, to see the ship leaving the dock and sailing away without us. It was somewhat surreal (as our biggest fear was getting back late from an excursion on many a day and “missing the boat” - or "ship" as we’re supposed to call it). This time is was supposed to leave without us, and while none of our passenger friends remained on board, many of the crew we got to know so well did.

We would like to give special recognition to our fabulous, and outrageously funny, cruise director Fernando; our equally fun, yet troublesome, assistant cruise director Alessandra; our hotel director, Michele (we thank you for the hospitality); ALL of the hotel and restaurant staff (without exception, we wish we could name you all, but there are too many and we don't want to risk leaving anyone out); Rex (for taking such good care of us at the pool); the spa specialists (for keeping Joanna pampered all of the time); the great entertainers (the Silver Shadow team and orchestra, as well as the many transient entertainers we picked up along the way); our fabulous tour guides Clive and Renee (and Nat, too, before he left us); our stewardesses Marina and Maria, for keeping our room in ship-top shape; and to our two tag-team Captains (Corsaro and Sangiacomo) for delivering us safely to a new destination every morning, and for being so generous with their time with Joanna on the bridge. You could take a few hours off knowing she was on duty.

To all of you we wish you farewell for now, safe seas, and many thanks for taking such great care of us with the utmost class. We will surely be back.

In the meantime, we must adjust to living on land and getting back to REALITY. As they say, all good things must come to an end...

And to our many friends and family who have virtually followed us along on this journey, see you soon!

Victoria: The Capital of British Columbia

2009-06-07T00:23:00.000-07:00

Victoria is an intimate, sophisticated seaside city in British Columbia’s capital city, and one of the top tourist destinations in the Pacific Northwest. It is situated on the southern tip of Vancouver Island, and enjoys one of Canada’s mildest climates. In terms of environment and lifestyle, the area boasts the sunniest spot in the province and an image of genteel civility.

Victoria’s unique character is deeply rooted in its 150+ year history, having been incorporated as a city in 1862, politically united with the mainland in 1866, and named the provincial capital when British Columbia joined the Canadian Confederation in 1871. The city’s British Colonial heritage is still very much in evidence, but contemporary Victoria has a distinctly Pacific Northwest flavor.

With our long journey about to end, Joanna spent the day packing three months of belongings and clothing (for every season and activity imaginable, plus all the dressier outfits for 92 dinners – including about 20 formal nights), while John got out of her hair and went to explore the area. Here are pictures of Joanna’s accomplishments (so you can see how much luggage is required for a 92-day journey, although two of the largest crates were already picked up at this point to be shipped ahead!).

Also shown are John’s tranquil pictures of his relaxing afternoon at the Butchart Gardens. These spectacular gardens began in 1904 when Jennie Butchart decided to beautify a limestone quarry used for her family’s cement business. Today, this 50-acre estate features extraordinary themed gardens known as the Sunken, Italian, Rose and Japanese Gardens. It is a must-see when in Victoria.

The final photo on this entry is our last sunset aboard this long journey on the Silver Shadow, taken as we had dinner alone together in the evening. We disembark in Vancouver in the morning.

Cruising the Inside Passage

2009-06-05T18:19:00.000-07:00

The Inside Passage of the Alaska Panhandle and coastal British Columbia is a coastal route for oceangoing vessels along a series of passages between the mainland and the coastal islands. Ships using the route can avoid some of the bad weather in the open ocean, and visit the many isolated communities along the journey. It is heavily travelled by cruise ships, freighters, tugs with tows, fishing craft and ships.

The Alaskan portion of the Inside Passage, in the north, extends 500 miles from north to south, and 100 miles from east to west. The area encompasses 1,000 islands, 15,000 miles of shoreline and thousands of coves and bays. British Columbia’s southern portion of the route is of similar extent, with up to 25,000 miles of coastline, and includes the narrow, protected Strait of Georgia between Vancouver Island and the B.C. mainland, the Johnstone and Queen Charlotte Straits between Vancouver Island and the mainland, as well as the wider and more exposed Hecate Strait near the Queen Charlotte Islands.

The Inside Passage is a destination for kayakers and canoeists from all over the world. Each year, groups and individuals paddle along the fjords from British Columbia to Glacier Bay in Alaska.

These are our last sights of Alaska and tomorrow we arrive in Victoria, British Columbia.

A Spectacular Crabfest in Ketchikan, Alaska

2009-06-05T16:51:00.000-07:00

On Thursday (6/4) we arrived in Ketchikan, Alaska, located on the western coast of Revillagigedo Island, near the southernmost coast of Alaska. The Tlingit Indians originally settled this area as a summer fishing camp, where five different species of salmon spawn every year. By the mid-1930’s, Ketchikan had aptly named itself the “Salmon Capital of the World.” In 1936 alone, the city packed more than 1.5 million cases of salmon.

Ketchikan is now also a charming Alaskan tourist town and a paradise for sport fishermen and naturalists alike. During the summer months, the town bustles with visitors from all over the world. An outstanding collection of totem poles, the world’s largest, make a visit to Ketchikan essential for anyone interested in Native art. Ketchikan’s name supposedly comes from the native term “Katch Kanna,” which roughly translates to “spread wings of a thundering eagle.”

It was yet another gorgeous day and we took a floatplane tour over the spectacular scenery of rain forests, glaciers and lakes (as shown above). The plane landed at Georges Inlet (see right), a remote lodge on a mountainous lake. There we were treated to a bountiful Dungeness crab feast which made our last stop in Alaska a very memorable experience. The flight back to the ship was equally enjoyable.

We then had time to take a pleasant walk in the rustic waterfront Creek Street shopping area (shown at immediate right), and of course do some damage.

Cruising Endicott Arm and Dawes Glacier

2009-06-04T09:25:00.000-07:00

The ship's planned itinerary for Wednesday was to spend the day sailing the Tracy Arm Fjord, a narrow and curvy waterway in southeast Alaska, to see the stunning Sawyer Glacier. However, en route we discovered that Tracy Arm was clogged by many icebergs that the glacier had calved (glacier term for the ice cracking, breaking off, and dropping into the water). Thus, it made the fjord impassable and we had to turn back.

The Captain quickly came up with another plan to cruise down the Endicott Arm Fjord toward the Dawes Glacier. Both Tracy Arm and Endicott Arm both meet in Holkman Bay which flows out to Stephens Passage. However, contrary to Tracy Arm, the Endicott Arm is nice and straight, so when the glacier calves, the icebergs have somewhere to flow and not get all stopped up. We sailed down the 27 miles through the Endicott Arm, viewing the beautiful scenery of the coastal mountains and the ice flowing past.

At the end of the Endicott Arm, we reached the massive Dawes Glacier (photo below right).

The face of the glacier has an elevation of 2,375 feet, and despite its visual size, much of the glacier is submerged underwater. Dawes Glacier is a very active glacier and it calves immense amounts of ice into the fjord (like those above left). Occasionally, the ship would hit an iceberg and visions of the Titanic would flash in our heads.

We spent the afternoon transiting northbound back out of the Endicott Arm to Stephens Passage, with of the benefit of getting a second look at this dramatic landscape.

Sitka, Alaska

2009-06-03T07:40:00.000-07:00

Sitka is one of the most extensive cities in Alaska, with a land area of about 2,882 square miles. It began as an important Tlingit Indian village and was called Shee At’ika, which translates roughly as “settlement on the outside of Shee”). In 1799, Alexander Baranof of the Russian American Company, a colonial trading company, decided to set up camp at what is now called Old Sitka, about 7.5 miles north of the present day town. The Tlingit Indians resisted the occupation and, in 1802, with Baranof away, burned the fort and massacred the Russian settlers. Two years later, Baranof returned and besieged the Indian fort. The Tlingits redrew and the Russians built a new city on a different site and called it New Archangel.

For over six decades, New Archangel was the capital of the Russian empire in Alaska. But by 1867, the Alaska colony had become too much of a financial burden to Russia, and the U.S. negotiated its purchase in the amount of $7.2 million for the entire Territory of Alaska (this equated to about 2 cents per acre). Sitka remained the capital of the US Territory of Alaska from 1867 to 1906, when it was moved to Juneau. The move was a direct result of the gold rush. In plain terms, Sitka did not have any gold and Juneau did.

We spent the day on a wildlife quest aboard an expedition catamaran that permitted us to explore areas unreachable by conventional boat. We were dropped off on a remote island (Frosty Reef) to see the colorful tide pools and marine life (at which time we were all given whistles around our necks in case we were approached by a bear…the discomforting concept was to run TOWARD anyone blowing the whistle as there is supposedly “safety in numbers.” Fortunately, no whistles were blown)!

We were delighted, however, to spot whales, dolphins and sea otters en route to and from the reef. With eagle eyes, our ranger also spotted several large brown bears onshore another island and we pulled up close to observe. We enjoyed immensely, but photo opportunities were not so great. Guess you all have to do this for yourselves…

The capital of Alaska: Juneau

2009-06-02T13:07:00.000-07:00

We arrived Monday morning in Juneau, Alaska. Considered by many to be the nation’s most beautiful capital city, it is famous for its spectacular mountains, glaciers, fjords, lakes and wildlife. The town is nestled in the rain forest where the mountains meet the sea amidst the 17 million acre Tongass National Forest, and a 1,500 square mile ice field.

Juneau is one of only two state capitals in the country not accessible by road; however, it is the second largest city, in area, in the United States. Its terrain is hilly, and its winding, narrow streets are filled with character. It is a quaint, yet sophisticated, town that is rich in Native culture and gold-mining history.

It was a gorgeous day and we took a helicopter tour over the lush rain forest and mountains, with the pilot getting up close to explore the deep blue crevasses and glacier-carved peaks. Our destination was the Alaska Icefield dog camp located at the Mendenhall Glacier’s 3,500 foot level. As the helicopter approached the camp and set down, it seemed like we were landing on another planet. There were 240 dog houses and tents for 18 people on a massive icefield surrounded by huge mountains. The people are professional mushers and live there six days a week to take care of the dogs, without running water, electricity, or cell phones.

The snow was 25 feet deep on the icefield and we witnessed several small avalanches before we were introduced to our musher, Joe. Joe in turn introduced us to the 11 dogs that would be pulling our sled (the other dogs were jealous and barking like crazy). We then set out on a spectacular journey across the icefield, and the camp at times seemed like a little dot in the distance. It was an exhilarating experience to be swept along the snow by these strong dogs, and to see that they enjoyed it as much as we did. To sum it up, John says it was a highlight of the trip and one on the best days of his life.

Skagway and the White Pass & Yukon Railroad

2009-06-01T17:45:00.000-07:00

Skagway is one of the oldest towns in Alaska. It is located in a narrow glaciated valley at the head of the Taiya Inlet at the north end of the Lynn Canal (95 air miles north of Juneau). The population of the city today is less than 1,000, but it doubles in the summer season to deal with about 900,000 visitors.

Skagway played a key role in the dramatic Klondike Gold Rush of 1897-1898. For several hectic months, uncounted thousands poured through its streets on their way north. They were headed for Dawson City, more than 500 miles inland. Conditions were so rigorous that fewer than half of those who arrived in Skagway reached the gold fields. As a rough-and-tumble frontier port, Skagway boasted more than 80 saloons; gun play was common and the town was controlled by a gang of organized criminals. Civilization arrived when the White Pass and Yukon Railroad Company began constructing its railroad in May 1989, and it advanced when the criminal element was purged two months later.

The White Pass & Yukon Railroad emerged as a result of the difficult trails and hazards encountered trekking inland in search of gold. Building the 110 miles of track was a challenge in every way. Construction required navigating cliff-hanging turns and building numerous tunnels, bridges and trestles. Thirty-five thousand men worked on the railroad’s construction, and it was completed in less than two years (however, by that time the gold rush was over).

We took a four-hour adventure on this legendary “Scenic Railway of the World” to take in the panoramic vistas of mountains, glaciers, gorges, waterfalls, tunnels and trestles. It was a beautiful sunny day with temperatures in the sixties, so that added to the enjoyment. Afterward, we went into town (which looks like an old movie set), and stopped in the must-see Red Onion Saloon, where the madams are dressed to create the scene of an old brothel.
Sailing out of the valley where Skagway is located was a spectacular site, and we saw many whales and dolphins. The moon was also a vision to see later at night over the water in complete blackness...

Cruising Hubbard Glacier

2009-05-31T12:38:00.000-07:00

Visibility was poor when the ship cruised the Hubbard Glacier on Saturday, as there was dense fog in the glacial passage (thus, we don't have great photos). However, the skies got clear afterward and provided magnificent scenery for the day as we travelled from Valdez to Skagway, Alaska (arriving Sunday morning).

We traverse the Sawyer Glacier on Wednesday, and hopefully can provide better photos, weather permitting. We can see more than the camera captures anyhow so we are not disappointed.

Climbing the Worthington Glacier in Valdez

2009-05-30T16:00:00.000-07:00

On Friday, we set out for a scenic drive to explore the many natural wonders of Valdez. We departed the pier in Valdez for a one-hour picturesque drive to the Worthington Glacier, passing the Keystone Canyon Waterfalls and the Thompson Pass.

Upon arrival at Worthington Glacier State Park, we signed waiver and waiver, and were then outfitted with glacier boots (with metal teeth for climbing the ice), helmets, and ice poles to make the trek up the VERY STEEP glacier. The hike up was about two hours, and many of us wanted to keep going but we had time constraints getting back to the ship before it sailed. We were ultimately able to traverse about one quarter of the massive glacier, but we did get to the top ice field. Our descent was a bit trickier due to deep crevasses (step in one and you go down 100 feet, never to be seen again), and the icy steep incline. We had four guides for 18 people and they were great at securing ropes in the ice when necessary to get to the next level safely.

Following our adventure at Worthington Glacier, we enjoyed the sail out of Valdez with incredibly stunning scenery of the snow-capped mountains meeting the sea. Tomorrow we cruise through the Hubbard Glacier en route to Skagway, Alaska.

Seward, Alaska

2009-05-29T16:03:00.000-07:00

Thursday (5/28) was a rainy day in Alaska. We docked in Seward to disembark 30 passengers and pick up 40. After saying our goodbyes to friends we had made on the last journey, we just went into town to do some shopping and have lunch on the waterfront at the notorious Ray’s Place. No pictures worth sharing (unless you care to see a sea of fishing boats).

Homer, Alaska: The Halibut Fishing Capital of the World

2009-05-28T17:41:00.000-07:00

Homer rests on the bank of Kachemak Bay, a sheltered arm of lower Cook Inlet. It is known as the “Halibut Fishing Capital of the World.” Snow-capped mountains reaching thousands of feet skyward and glistening glaciers combine to create a scenic backdrop to Homer’s fun-filled fishing port. Just over 4,000 people live and work in the town of Homer, making it a hub of south-central Alaska’s fishing and tourism businesses.

Our adventure for the day was to take a private helicopter tour across Kachemak Bay to view the exhilarating scenery of the bay and Grewingk Glacier. After an hour of enjoying the aerial views of the mountains and the coves, we landed on the glacier to explore the terrain.

However, we were not outfitted to travel far on the slippery slopes. That experience we have planned (to the fullest) for our visit to the Worthington Glacier in Valdez in a few days…

Later in the afternoon, we visited the many, many shops along the quaint Homer waterfront and stopped for a drink in the famous “Salty Dawg Saloon” before returning to the ship.

Kodiak, Alaska

2009-05-27T19:16:00.000-07:00

Kodiak Island is located on the south coast of Alaska, and is separated from the Alaska mainland by the Shelikof Strait. With a size of 3,465 square miles, it is the largest island in the Kodiak Archipelago, and the second largest island in the United States (the Big Island in Hawaii being the largest). The Russians established a settlement here in 1784, lured by the region’s plentiful fish and sea mammals (particularly the valuable sea otter pelts). When the U.S. purchased Kodiak from Russia in 1867, its economy shifted abruptly from the fur trade and whaling to salmon fishing. It is home to some 700 fishing vessels and the country’s largest Coast Guard station.

Population of the Kodiak Archipelago is about 12,000, but land for housing is scarce with 85% of it naturally preserved by the government. The terrain is very mountainous and there are many deep ice-free bays that provide sheltered anchorages for boats.

We spent the day at exploring the beauty of the island at Fort Abercrombie State Park. We hiked for hours through its wooded trails taking in breathtaking views of the coastline. There were many different types of seabirds, and we were also lucky enough to see whales, seals, otters and an eagle.

The eagle was the only one that cooperated for a decent photo, however.

Next stop is Homer, Alaska.

Back in the U.S.A.

2009-05-25T18:53:00.000-07:00

Upon leaving Russia, we spent three days crossing the Bering Sea, which was uncharacteristically smooth, and on Sunday arrived in Dutch Harbor, Alaska (the USA!). This homecoming wasn’t as significant to most on board, as about only 10% of the 380 onboard (100 passengers and 280 crew) are American. But after nearly ten weeks abroad, it was meaningful to us (although we are still not anxious for the trip to end!). Fortunately, we still have about two weeks to go...

Dutch Harbor is one of the Aleutian Islands, a chain of more than 300 small volcanic islands extending in an arc from the Kamchatka Peninsula towards Alaska. These islands were the stepping stones that attracted Russian explorers to Alaska in the 18th century. The U.S. purchased Alaska from Russia in 1867, and bitter campaigns were fought here between American and Japanese forces during World War II.

We made a brief stop in the city of Unalaska, Dutch Harbor, located at Unalaska Island at the end of the Aleutian chain. Unalaska is a community of about 4,000 residents, and as one of America’s busiest commercial fishing ports, almost 90% of its workforce is economically dependent on the fishing industry. “Town” consisted of a Safeway store, gas station, museum, and a hotel with a restaurant and gift shop. The locals were very friendly, and we enjoyed a delicious fresh king crab lunch at the hotel, afterwards stocking up on some essentials at the Safeway (it was great to see brands we recognized!). We have eight more destinations and many more exciting adventures in Alaska to come.

Stepping Foot on Russian Soil

2009-05-22T22:17:00.000-07:00

It felt like Christmas morning when we awoke yesterday* (Thursday) to the beautiful view of snow-capped Russian mountains. We were in the port of Petropavlovsk, a city that has the largest settlement on the Kamchatka Peninsula. During the Soviet Era, this remote Far East Russian outpost served as the submarine base of the Pacific Fleet. Today, it is dominated by the fishing industry, with trawlers bringing in a million tons of fish each year. It is a rare occasion for a cruise ship to make a stop here.

By all appearances, Petropavlovsk seemed to be behind the times. In fact, a fellow traveler from Germany commented that it reminded him of the condition of his country in the eighties. Most buildings and roads were in a state of disrepair. But we nevertheless got the chance to step foot on Russian soil, and experience a bit of its culture, at a local restaurant.

After a welcome drink of Russian champagne, we were entertained with a performance of traditional Russian folk songs and dances by several groups of children and adults.

We then had a cooking demonstration and a tasting of locally brewed beer, following by lunch featuring traditional Russian dishes. Following lunch, we took a drive up the mountainous terrain for some spectacular views of the sea and volcanoes in the distance. It was a pleasant afternoon and we are now heading due east across the Bering Sea. Our destination: Alaska!

*Note: “Yesterday” was actually 48 hours ago as we crossed the international date line on May 22 (in Latitude 53°08´ North and Longitude 169° 36´ East), and thus experienced Friday twice...

Hokkaido Island, Japan

2009-05-19T19:05:00.000-07:00

On Sunday and Monday, the ship made stops at two other Japanese ports, Hakodate and Kushiro, both located on Hokkaido Island.

Hakodate is located on the southern part of Hokkaido Island, and is Hokkaido’s third largest city with a population of just under 300,000 residents. It has a provincial charm to it, and one can supposedly see stunning views from the summit of Mount Hokodate, although it was raining and we did not make the trip. Instead, we visited the Hakodate Morning Market, an open-air fresh seafood market with easily over 400 tightly-packed storefronts selling the daily catch. Most memorable were the two- foot giant crabs pictured at right.

The Morning Market is located within the recently developed “Red Brick Warehouse” waterfront region, where old warehouses of red brick have been remodeled to house bars and restaurants. We found a number of shops selling very unique glassware and wood carvings, and came “home” (or back to the ship, but we call it home these days) excited about our purchases.

On Monday, we arrived further north at the port of Kushiro. Kushiro is the main port of Hakkaido and the island’s only ice-free trading port. It is also a major base for fishermen, and had its own version of the seafood market at the Fisherman’s Wharf called MOO. The downtown area was honestly not that exciting, but we did find a great little local sushi restaurant where we struggled to order as no one spoke any English (but they did play a Frank Sinatra CD for us). Afterward, we strolled the shops and took this photo in front of Japan’s version of the dollar stores known in the U.S., here called the “100 Yen Shop.”

We departed the port of Kushiro seeing this beautiful sunset, and are now on very choppy seas en route to Russia, arriving Thursday.

The Heart of Japan: Tokyo

2009-05-15T21:33:00.000-07:00

Mid-Thursday afternoon we arrived in the port city of Yokohama, Japan, and began our Tokyo experience. Yokohama, with almost four million citizens, is the second-most populous urban area in Japan after Tokyo (which has about twelve million). It is considered the “entrance to Tokyo” which is about an hour’s drive away.

We set out to explore with what daylight remained and took a drive over the picturesque Yokohama Bay Bridge (2,822 feet long), designed as the centerpiece to the city’s futuristic looking cityscape. Our drive continued through the city streets and we were immediately stricken with how clean and organized everything appeared, and surprised by how little traffic there was on the roads (it was rush hour on a weekday). The Japanese work hard to discourage people owning cars, by making it extremely expensive, and thus most citizens resort to public transportation (subways and rails, not buses) or bicycles, the latter of which we saw many.

We proceeded to the Landmark Tower, Japan’s tallest building, and the symbol of the modern harbor area known as Minato Mirai. In an ultrafast elevator, we were whisked up to the Sky Garden, an observatory deck on the 69th floor, to take in the panoramic views. Photos below show views from the Sky Garden at dusk and night.

On Friday morning, we left the ship for the one hour drive into Tokyo. Our first stop was the Imperial Palace Plaza, home to Emperor Heisei and other members of the Royal Family. The palace is surrounded by an extensive park with moats and massive stone walls. Unfortunately, the inner gardens and palace were closed for viewing (only open to the public two days a year, on January 2 and December 23, the Emperor’s birthday). The photo at left just shows the tip of the Palace, which is largely behind stone walls and greenery. But, we can still “check the box,” as we were at least there...

We continued on to bustling Asakusa, one of the city’s few areas to retain the flavor of Old Tokyo. It is also home to Sensoji Temple, Tokyo’s oldest and most impressive temple, also known as A’sakusa Kannon Temple. The present building is a reconstruction of the original temple built in 645 A.D. that was destroyed in the air raids of 1945. The temple precinct teems with people praying, buying fortunes, shopping and sightseeing. Along the approach to the temple from the famous Kaminarimon Gate, there are many shops selling traditional knick-knacks, rice crackers and festival foods.

Driving on some distance further, we stopped at the Hotel New Otani Tokyo to see the picturesque Japanese gardens on its grounds, amongst beautiful waterfalls and ponds with large carp and koi fish. The ten of us on this trip had a magnificent seven-course lunch, consisting of succulent meat and garden fresh seafood (not from the pond) grilled at our table in a private dining area within the gardens.

To walk off lunch, we made a final stop at The Ginza, (“Silver Mint”), which is considered to be the Champs-Elysees of Tokyo. The street has always been fashionable, and the vanguard of change. There are numerous elegant boutiques, cafes and department stores. The Ginza was the first place in Japan to import Western-style culture with sophisticated store displays for the joy of window-shopping. Many stores are recognizable names from back home. Although politeness is a virtue in the way of Japanese life, negotiating one’s way through the streets of The Ginza required some dodging of bicycles and elbowing to get through the jostling crowds. Nevertheless, we took it all in and headed back to the solitude of the ship for the evening. We set sail at dusk and caught these glimpses of the sunset over Yokohama and the ship sailing (just barely) under the Yokohama Bay Bridge…

Nagasaki, Japan, after the A-Bomb

2009-05-15T21:16:00.000-07:00

Nagasaki is a port city located on the westernmost extremity of Kyushu Island and surrounded on three sides by verdant mountains. We awakened Tuesday morning cruising the splendid natural harbor that earned Nagasaki the moniker “Gateway to the West.” It was discovered accidentally by an off-course Portuguese ship in 1543. Over the years, it became a thriving industrial center that made it a prime target in World War II.

On August 9, 1945, the second atomic bomb was dropped on Nagasaki, wiping out most of the city and killing or injuring 150,000 of its 240,000 inhabitants. Since the war, Nagasaki has become a focal center for peace campaigns and people from all over the world come to visit its Peace Park and Peace Museum.

Established in 1955 near the hypocenter of the explosion, Peace Park is a place of prayers for world peace and souls of the atomic bomb victims. The photo to the left shows John standing in the exact spot where the bomb exploded 1,,500 feet above. Elsewhere, in a very serene setting, a 30-foot statue points with its right hand to heaven, signifying the threat of nuclear weapons and with its left hand extended symbolizing eternal peace. Various other statues donated from countries all over the world line the paths to the Peace Statue and the Fountain of Peace. The Fountain of Peace, dedicated by the Japanese people, is an offering of water to the thousands of A-bomb victims that suffered terrible burns and died begging for water. The fountain sends up a sparkling spray of water in the shape of a pair of wings, evoking the dove of peace.

We also visited the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum, which has numerous artifacts, remains, and photos related to the bombing. It was quite a somber experience to see so much of the devastation caused. That feeling was somewhat tempered when we thought back to our visit to Pearl Harbor; however, it is so unfortunate that either catastrophic event ever had to happen. Seeing Nagasaki rebuilt today, it is hard to imagine that the bombing ever took place. To our surprise, we also found the people of Nagasaki to be among the most hospitable we have encountered, and we enjoyed very memorable sendoffs with musical performances by schoolchildren prior to sailing on. Other children were running up and down the dock waving and holding signs "See you again in Nagasaki!" Adults on the dock were waving with just as much enthusiasm.

Okinawa, Japan

2009-05-11T01:55:00.001-07:00

The Southwest Islands of the East China Sea stretch like stepping stones from Taiwan to Japan, serving as a bridge between the two cultures (as well as a source of tension as to who should have control over them). In 1372, an Okinawan king began paying tribute to the Chinese court, a practice that continued for over 200 years. However, Japanese power was on the rise by the 17th century, and the Satsuma Kingdom of Southern Kyushu soon invaded and annexed the islands.

Okinawa is the largest and most important island in the group, and Naha (where we docked) is its capital city. Okinawa was flattened during World War II, and there is little left of the Ryukyu structure. Its most famous attraction, the Shurijo Castle, has since been restored. This had been the residence of the Ryukyu royal family for 450 years. After its restoration based on photographs, historical records and memory, it was reopened in 1993. It served as the venue for G8 Meeting of Heads of State in 2000 (Bill Clinton was there). The entire surrounding area is known as Shuri Park, and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000.

Following our visit to the Castle, we returned to the ship and to Joanna’s favorite spot, the “Bridge.” As you can tell from the photo, the Captain doesn’t even pay attention anymore to the buttons she is pushing. The Captain, (whose name is Angelo Corsaro, by the way), is the senior Captain aboard the Silversea fleet. As he laughingly likes to say, “the name Corsaro is derived from corsaire, Italian for pirate, so the obvious choice was a life at sea.” Unfortunately, he’ll be leaving us in a few days in Yokohama to continue preparations for the new Silver Spirit, which sets sail in early 2010. It is everyone’s opinion he is training Joanna to take over in his absence…
Anyway, after successfully navigating a departure from the Naha harbor, we enjoyed a farewell dinner with Captain Corsaro and some other Grand Pacific voyagers. (John was there, too, by the way, but he is the one taking the photos).

We are now en route to Nagasaki, Japan

Welcome to Taiwan and Taipei City

2009-05-08T20:40:00.001-07:00

Taiwan used to be called Formosa….Portuguese for "beautiful." It is a relatively small country, but it is packed with people (twenty-three million of them!). That makes it the most densely populated country behind Bangladesh. Taipei City is the capital. Three million people live in the city, and three million more live in the suburbs of Taipei.

Chiang Kai-shek was their first president, and the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall is an incredible monument to him. He died in 1975. Construction started in 1976, and it was finished in 1980. There are 89 steps to climb (one for each year of his life) to get to the main hall and the giant statue of him.

And then there’s the Martyr’s Shrine. This was built in 1969. It honors the fallen heroes of China’s wars. They change the guards every hour and that ceremony is really something to see. When it’s done, the guards stand like statues, rain or shine. We had lovely weather when we visited.

The Confucius Temple is also quite a sight. We all know of Confucius (the “see no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil” guy)...

He’s considered to be the greatest teacher in the history of China. The original temple was built in 1875, but the Japanese tore it down when they occupied Taiwan after they defeated the Qing Dynasty in 1895. This one was built in 1927.

All in all it was a lovely day. Taipei is a busy city filled with nice people and lots of great restaurants. We had a nice lunch at one of them in the middle of a day filled with the sights and sounds of Taiwan. We left with the lights of the city off the harbour and set sail for Japan, our next stop on our marvelous journey on board the Silver Shadow.

Glittering Hong Kong by Night

2009-05-07T22:00:00.000-07:00

Arriving back at the ship on Wednesday evening, we were exhausted and thought our Hong Kong experience had come to an end. But we then got a call from the Captain requesting that the two of us come to the bridge to “experience the sailing out of Hong Kong harbor.” We didn’t know what we had done to deserve this honor, but of course we immediately obliged. It was quite an experience.
When we first got to the bridge, there was still daylight and there were many preparations to be made before we sailed. There was an authority from Hong Kong there to assist us in getting out of the busy harbor (he is the guy with the coffee cup at right; the Captain is the guy in white). From the deck on the port side of the ship, we saw the ropes released and the Captain began navigating us backward away from the dock, which was quite a feat in itself.

When we finally fully backed out and were prepared to sail ahead, the Captain gave Joanna the task of “Saluting the Harbor” as we departed Hong Kong. This meant sounding the horns in three 4-count increments, separated by 2-count intervals. She took this job very seriously and pulled it off very well. We then stopped to take in the breathtaking scenery of Hong Kong’s glittering lights from the bridge as we left the Harbor. Again, we don’t know what we did to deserve this experience, but it is one that will not be forgotten.

(By the way, the Hong Kong guy jumped onto a tugboat once we got out of the harbor, so we have no hostages).

We arrive in Taiwan shortly.

Lantau Island and Monastary

2009-05-07T16:49:00.000-07:00

On Wednesday, we set out to explore Lantau Island, which is part of Hong Kong and neighbors Hong Kong Island to the west. It was a very scenic drive and we took a brief stop at the Tsing Ma Lookout to view the Tsing Ma Bridge, the world’s longest suspension bridge, which connects Hong Kong Island to Lantau Island. It was quite a feat of engineering to see, and the observation area is well maintained with flowers and exhibits explaining various details of the construction. The amount of cable on the bridge is enough is circle the world three times! (The bridge was so long it could not fit within one photo).

We next visited Tai O, also known as the “Venice of the Orient”, and the only surviving fishing village in Hong Kong. It is renowned for the stilt houses built in the narrow Pearl River channel. These huts, the most distinctive characteristic of Tai O, are inhabited mostly by the Tanka people, descendants of the ancient Yueh tribe, Hong Kong’s first major settlers. The village’s fish farming industry has made it a major supplier of sea fish to Hong Kong. Again, we witnessed a way of life few of us could imagine…

Our drive continued on through the beautiful mountain scenery on Lantau Island to the Po Lin Monastery, the principal center of Buddhism in Hong Kong. The monastery houses the world’s tallest outdoor seated bronze Buddha statue, the Tian Tan Buddha. This imposing statue weighs over 250 tons and is more than 100 feet high.

After a spectacular nine-course vegetarian lunch served at the Monastery, we took a four mile cable car trip back to Tung Chung, taking in the views of the mountainous terrain and the China Sea in the distance. Another fabulous day.

Highlights of Hong Kong

2009-05-07T16:35:00.000-07:00

This is the longest time in which we haven’t updated the blog since we have been so busy trying to take in all of the sights and sounds of Hong Kong. What a place! We arrived early Tuesday morning and immediately set out on a tour of the city. We first took the tram up to the 1300-foot Victoria Peak and took in the spectacular views of Hong Kong and Kowloon, where our ship was docked. These photos show views of Hong Kong Island and neighboring Kowloon…

We next went to Aberdeen to board sampan boats to tour the floating settlements. We cruised along the city’s oldest harbor, and saw houseboats that have existed since the very first settlers of Hong Kong. Many of these are now abandoned, as many of the future generations have moved to the mainland following their children, and in several years this type of existence may no longer be. Nevertheless, it was an interesting lifestyle to witness, and realize how many things we take for granted that we should not.

We then went to the open-air Stanley Market, on the southernmost tip of Hong Kong Island, to walk around and see all of the small shops where Joanna just had to stop and spend some money. (Actually John didn’t do so badly, either).

We went back to the ship, and with much of the day still remaining, took a ferry from Kowloon where we were docked back to Hong Kong Island (the ferry being a treat in itself), and found a little area called Lan Kwai Fong where there are many local pubs and restaurants and had a late afternoon lunch. The area is very busy and has the feeling of traditional Hong Kong.

After going back to the ship again and resting/freshening up, eight of us headed out for a spectacular dinner at Aqua Tokyo, in a private room overlooking the harbor and the glittering Hong Kong lights. The views and the food were fabulous. The buildings along the harbor all do a synchronized laser light show every night at 8. It sure was a sight to see.

So this was Tuesday in Hong Kong…

Saigon and Life in the Mekong Delta

2009-05-02T22:37:00.000-07:00

On Friday afternoon we arrived in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, still popularly referred to by its old name, “Saigon.” The official name change took place in 1976 following the country’s reunification. Located in the south of Vietnam on a giant bend of the Saigon River, Ho Chi Minh City is the country’s largest city, with a population of nearly seven million people and over one million motorbikes.

After taking in the bustling sights of Central Saigon in the afternoon, all guests of Silversea were treated to a memorable evening of traditional Vietnamese cuisine and lively local entertainment at the Hotel Majestic, one of Saigon’s historic hotels.

On Saturday, we set out to explore life in the Mekong Delta. The Mekong River originates in Tibet, and flows through several countries before its 120-mile course through Vietnam divides into nine river mouths, aptly called the “Nine Dragon Delta” by locals. Following a two-hour drive to Cai Be Village in the heart of the Mekong Delta area, we boarded a motorized longboat to explore the fascinating waterways. Numerous natural and manmade canals serving the local traffic criss-cross this active region.

The waterways teem with boats whose owners are farmers selling their wares ("floating markets"), and other boats with buyers making their purchases. We passed through local waterfront villages, where most homes and business structures were dilapidated, but the locals did not seem to be aware of their oppressive lifestyle. Adults were friendly, and children played and waved as we passed by. This is simply the way of life they have become accustomed to.

Our trip concluded with lunch at a local restaurant along the river, where the gardens and ambience were much out of context with the other sights of the day.

We arrive in Hong Kong on Tuesday.

Another Day in Singapore

2009-04-30T03:12:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was our second day in Singapore, and it was hard to pick what to do with limited time. We knew that the Singapore Zoo, acclaimed to be one of the world’s most spectacular zoos, was a must-see. So we spent several hours there in the morning and it was well worth it. It is a very large zoo and was designed largely with the help of the adventurous Australian Steve Irwin (the TV personality that died from the stingray barb), so it is primarily an “open-zoo” concept…rather than cages, natural barriers like streams, rock walls and vegetation separate animals from visitors. It was exceptionally well done but we won’t bore you with dozens of photos of animals. You have to be there to experience it.

Next, we took the cable cars from where our ship was docked on two scenic rides, on one side to Mount Faber, a scenic overlook with a great restaurant, and on the other side to Sentosa Island, a resort destination. Sentosa Island currently has several beach resorts and other attractions, and is undergoing huge development in the building of Universal Studios (photo below), several more hotels, and a casino. It will be an amazing place to visit once completed.

A visit to Singapore would not be complete without some shopping, as Singapore is known as a shopper’s paradise. The most famous shopping area is along Orchard Road, but the more colorful ethnic shops are found in the sectors of Little India, Arab Street and Chinatown. The latter we took in yesterday, and with limited time, we did some damage in the 1 million square foot HarbourFront complex before returning to the ship.

Another day now at sea en route to Vietnam.

Essences of Singapore

2009-04-28T14:38:00.000-07:00

On Monday, we crossed the Equator at 3 pm en route to Singapore, where we arrived on Tuesday morning. It was HOT. (This is the second Equator crossing on our journey, the first being on March 17 en route to Christmas Island, Kirimati).

Singapore consists of 63 islands, about 272 square miles in total, including mainland Singapore. We docked on the mainland and got an early start to take in the sights. It takes only about 15 minutes to get anywhere on the island by taxi.

We began with a trishaw (bicycle-peddled vehicle) tour of the older sections of Singapore, including Chinatown and Little India. We stopped for visits at the Mariamman Temple, the country’s oldest Hindu temple (at right), and the Asian Civilisations Museum. Next, we took a riverboat tour on the Singapore River. Photos below here show the riverfront at Boat Quay, the skyline of the Downtown Core (business district), and the Fullerton Hotel with the country's mythically iconic "Merlion" (half lion, half fish) fountain in the forefront. We then had lunch at one of the many upscale riverfront restaurants where we disembarked the boat at Clarke Quay.

Singapore is remarkably clean and pleasant, designed with a lot of greenery to give it an open-air feel. There has been incredibly well-planned and massive urban development on the island in the last 10-15 years and it is very modern and trendy.

Our outing ended with a stop at the landmark Raffles Hotel to enjoy its trademark Singapore Sling at the famous Long Bar…

More to see in Singapore on Wednesday.

Menyawaken Island

2009-04-27T02:08:00.000-07:00

Sunday morning we sailed through the Karimunjawa Archipelago, part of Indonesia, consisting of 27 beautifully green tropical islands with white sand beaches just off Java’s northern coast. We anchored off Menyawaken Island and tendered ashore. The island, only about 10 acres large, has a laid-back ambience and is home solely to the luxurious and very private Kura Kura Beach Resort.

The resort villas are undergoing renovations, and thus there were no guests staying there. However, the ship was able to arrange for our private use of the island and its facilities for the day. All 120 passengers took advantage of this opportunity to relax on the beach in the shade of coconut trees, swim in the lagoon, and enjoy the refreshing pool. The ship’s staff prepared an incredible barbeque for us ashore with no detail overlooked. The amount of effort to transport not only the food and beverages, but the dishes, glassware, utensils, etc., was quite impressive. It was a very enjoyable day.

Back at sea today, we arrive in Singapore for a two-day stay tomorrow morning.

Majestic Borobudur

2009-04-25T07:32:00.000-07:00

Upon arriving in Semarang, Indonesia this morning, about 30 of us headed out for a full-day excursion to Central Java to visit the monumental and stunning temple complex of Borobudur. Built before 800 A.D. over a period of about 80 years, and with more than two million cubic feet of stone, it is renowned as the world’s largest Buddhist monument. The structure comprises six rectangular stories of lava-rock erected in the form of a stepped pyramid.

Three circular terraces and a central “stupa” (mound-like structure containing Buddhist relics) form the summit (picture at the right was taken from top of the summit). With 2,672 relief statues and approximately 600 Buddha statues, it is considered to be an architectural masterpiece.

Borobudur was the spiritual center of Buddhism in Java before being abandoned when the Javanese converted to Islam around the 14th century. Worldwide awareness of its existence was made known in 1814 by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, then British ruler of Java, who was advised of its location by the local Indonese. The monumental complex had been concealed for centuries by volcanic ash and vegetation, and painstaking efforts have been made to unearth and restore it. The largest project was undertaken between 1975 and 1982 by the Indonesian government and UNESCO, after which the monument was declared a World Heritage Site.

Despite the fascinating day spent at Borobudur, John and our fellow travel companions have not stopped talking about the police escort we had for our tour bus to and from the site (about a hundred miles each way). The captain wanted to be sure that we made it back to the ship on time and arranged for it. With very dense and at times fast-moving head-on traffic on narrow roads, our fearless police escort cut through it like Moses parting the seas. We made our own lane with sirens and flashing lights through the traffic lanes, sometimes on the divider line and sometimes on the wrong side of the road. It was an amazing way to travel. Needless to say, we made it back to the ship four hours ahead of schedule. When does anyone ever speak of a bus trip being so much FUN??

A Day in Bali

2009-04-23T21:13:00.000-07:00

On Thursday morning, we docked at Benoa Port, near the southern tip of Bali, Indonesia. Along with another couple from Britain, we decided to see the interior of the island. We had a driver take us several hours north, pointing out many places of interest along the way. Our ultimate destination was an elephant safari park located in Taro, where they have about 30 rescued Sumatran elephants.

Although the park was a little bit touristy, it was in a very natural and well-maintained setting, and we had a lovely day. After getting acquainted with our chosen elephant, we took an hour ride through the lush trails upon his back, and ended the trip with a wade in the elephant pool.

Heading back to the port, we took a different route and stopped at a local wood carving shop and one of the many temples on the island. The day ended with a spectacular barbeque aboard the ship’s deck, entertained by some local Balinese dancers.

Another day at sea now before we get to Semarang, Indonesia.

In Search of the Komodo Dragon

2009-04-22T02:31:00.000-07:00

On Wednesday morning, we arrived at Komodo Island, the volcanic island of the giant lizards, that lies 320 miles east of Bali. Komodo is home to a small community of some 500 people who make their living primarily from fishing. The island’s centerpiece is Komodo National Park, where one can find some 1,300 dragons in the wild as a tangible legacy to the Jurassic Era.

The fearsome Komodo dragon is the world’s largest living lizard and can take very large prey: wild pigs, deer, water buffalo (and yes, humans!). They are not as large as T-Rex by any means, but they are ancestors of the goanna family dating back more than 100 million years, and manage to rule the island. Just last month a fisherman was killed and eaten by several dragons, and the month before a park ranger was mauled by one that managed to get into his hut. Other attacks took the lives of an eight-year-old boy and a Swiss tourist several years ago.

So we decided to venture out in search of the Komodo dragon (crazy? Yes!). Only 12 people were allowed out with the rangers at a time; with 3 rangers that made the ratio of stupid tourists (bait) to rangers 4:1. We were a bit disturbed to see the rangers armed only with pointed sticks as we approached the path through the reserve...

We knew in advance that the creatures were not caged in or penned in by any means.

We meandered on the path with all defensive guards up and came across several dragons in the wild. Fortunately, since the dragons hunt and eat their prey in the early morning, these were already satisfied and didn’t charge us. They seemed to be basking in the sun and digesting whatever prey that had already found. The islanders used to feed the dragons in years past to preserve the species (and themselves), but they no longer do. These dragons now all survive in the wild.

We were happy to come to the end of the trail and be picked up by boat to get back to the ship. “Check the box, we’ve done that,” and now we don’t ever have to come back.

The voyage leaving Komodo Island past the many islands of Indonesia was quite picturesque, (as the following pictures show) and a relaxing end to a very odd day. Tomorrow we are in the bit more civilized Bali...

Saying Goodbye to Australia

2009-04-18T19:25:00.000-07:00

On Saturday, we came upon Thursday Island in Australia, one of only 17 inhabited islands out of 100 islands in the Torres Strait. The Torres Strait is a channel located between Cape York on the mainland of Australia and the southern coast of Papua, New Guinea. “T.I.”, as Thursday Island is known, was settled in 1877 and has a population of about 3,500; the majority are native islanders, with a mix of Malay, Polynesian, Chinese and Japanese.

The ship anchored in the lee of Black Rock, and we decided not to go ashore, but rather to enjoy the view of the surrounding islands from the vantage point of our balcony. There was not a heck of a lot we missed seeing on Thursday Island other than some shops, an old fortress, and an historic cemetery. And there were no water sports offered as the channel is loaded with alligators! Nevertheless, we had a relaxing afternoon taking in the last beautiful sights of Australia, and we are now at sea for three days headed to our next destination: Komodo Island, Indonesia.

Cairns, Australia and the Great Barrier Reef...WOW

2009-04-16T21:43:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Cairns (pronounced “Cans”) on Thursday morning, not really knowing what to expect, other than that we had scheduled an excursion to the Great Barrier Reef. We discovered that this is definitely a place to come back to.

Our excursion was a catamaran trip 70 miles offshore to the Great Barrier Reef, where we docked at a floating outpost in the middle of the Coral Sea to explore the territory. We first took a glass bottom boat to see the reef from above, and then a semi-submarine vehicle to see the view below through the glass. The scenery was phenomenal and we thought THAT was exciting. But then, we hired a private diver to take us snorkeling through and over the reef. Words CANNOT EXPLAIN the beauty that we saw…colorful, and vibrantly alive, coral and fish as far as the eyes could see. It was just the two of us with the guide, so he was able to point out the various fish (sometimes very big fish (2-3 feet long, but they were bright and colorful, so we weren’t afraid) and point out all the different types of coral. He would also dive below the surface when we came upon giant clams (and we mean GIANT, like 5 to 7 feet in circumference) and insert his hand into their mouths and we would see them close. But our biggest delight was coming face to face with two giant sea turtles (5-6 feet in length) who let us get very up close. NO SNORKELING EXPERIENCE could ever compare to the Great Barrier Reef. (Note: as of our return to civilization in June, we have finally developed our underwater camera and updated this post with actual pictures of this excursion). You will see the turtle at left; the giant clam is below right, and the diver approaching it below left.
The Reef supports a diversity of life, including many vulnerable and endangered species (detail provided for our friends at the Riverhead Foundation which supports the marine life on Long Island)…

30 species of whales, dolphins and porpoises, including the dwarf minke whale, Indo-Pacific humpback dolphin and the humpback whale. Large populations of dugongs also live there.

6 species of sea turtles, including the green sea turtle, leatherback sea turtle, hawksbill turtle, loggerhead sea turtle, flatback turtle, and the olive ridley.

125 species of shark, stingray and skates (and we got in the water??)

5,000 species of mollusks, including the GIANT CLAMS that we saw

49 species of pipefish and 9 species of seahorse

215 species of birds (with 2 million birds using the Reef to breed)

2,195 known plant species

More than 1,500 species of fish

And much, much more.

Anyway, John hasn’t stopped talking about this experience with others on the boat and he is like an excited child in describing what he saw. His repeated phrase all day has been “Nobody should be allowed to have this much fun!” THAT says it all.

Ashore on Hayman Island

2009-04-14T21:06:00.000-07:00

This morning (Wednesday, 4/15) we awoke to the views of a beautiful island resort on Hayman Island, Australia, nestled between Queensland’s northeastern coast and the magnificent Great Barrier Reef. Surrounded by the picturesque waterways of the Whitsunday Passage, Hayman Island is the most northerly of the 74 Whitsunday Islands. Captain Cook, who sailed into the area on Whitsunday in June 1770, named this passage. The American writer, filmmaker and big-game fisherman Zane Grey was an early visitor, and planted the island’s first coconut palm. In Summer 1936, Grey began filming the romantic comedy, White Death on Hayman.

Enough history. The resort, recognized as one of the world’s finest resorts, is the single occupant of the island. There are majestic palms, lush tropical plants and exotic blooms everywhere. There are walking trails through the exotic bushland, which covers most of the island and many colorful (and very vocal) birds everywhere.

We spent the day relaxing on the beach and by the pool, and then returned to the ship to set sail for Cairns, Australia, where we arrive tomorrow to spend the day sailing the Great Barrier Reef.

Easter Greetings from the Koalas and Kangaroos

2009-04-13T23:54:00.000-07:00

So, we didn’t have to do without our Easter basket even though we were away from home on Sunday. This picture was taken of goodies sent to our suite by the Captain, along with a bottle of champagne. We were at sea for the day.

On Monday morning, we arrived in Brisbane, Australia. Brisbane is Australia’s third largest city and the capital of Queensland. The center of Brisbane occupies a peninsula bounded on the sea on one side and the Brisbane River on the other. The river meanders through the city, and gardens, parklands and flowering trees border its avenues.

It was a very rainy and extremely humid day. Although John ventured out with some friends to explore the koala sanctuary, Joanna decided to enjoy the sanctuary of the ship’s spa instead. John is pictured here holding his newfound (and very wet) friend, Axel. He learned that koalas are a protected species in Australia, as they are often killed by traffic due to the expanding population and building. He also got to meet some kangaroos and other wildlife. So who do you think had the better day?

A Wonderful Weekend in Sydney

2009-04-12T00:15:00.000-07:00

Well, we arrived in Sydney late Friday, April 10 (Good Friday), about a ½ day late due to tumultuous crossing of the Tasman Sea. But our worries were soon forgotten (“no worries, Mate”…as they say in Australia) as we sailed into the harbour, under the famous Harbour Bridge, and toward the amazing and beautiful Sydney Opera House. “Awesome” doesn’t begin to describe the beautiful sights.

We docked just across from the Opera House and were greeted by our friends Ian and Cathy Rae from New York. Ian (an Aussie himself) and Cathy come to Australia every year and timed their visit to coincide with ours. It was great to see familiar faces from back home. We went to the famous Doyles Restaurant on the water for dinner and to catch up.

On Saturday morning, Ian’s cousin, Cleo, and her husband Michael (who have frequently visited our home in the Hamptons) took us on a four-hour private tour of the city and surrounding suburbs. Of course, we could not see everything, as Sydney spreads over some 670 square miles, but there were vistas of the Sydney Opera House and harbour from everywhere. We stopped at the home where Ian grew up, and spoke to its current owners. We also stopped by Michael and Cleo’s house, and spent the afternoon having lunch and walking around the harbour and The Rocks, Sydney’s oldest section which is now a beautiful marketplace. Our stay in Sydney was capped with an extraordinary evening at the Sydney Opera House to see the the Australian Ballet’s performance of “Firebird and Other Legends.” The Captain hosted this black-tie evening for those thirty of us who are taking the full 92-day Grand Pacific Voyage. We witnessed an exquisite performance and it was a magical evening under the roof of an iconic structure.

Not for the faint at heart...The Tasman Sea

2009-04-09T21:11:00.000-07:00

Well, we made it! For the past two and a half days, we have been crossing the Tasman Sea en route from New Zealand to Australia. The Tasman Sea is a section of the southwest Pacific Ocean that lies between southeastern Australia and Tasmania on the west, and New Zealand on the east, and measures about 900,000 square miles.

The Captain advised us before entering this zone that the Tasman Sea is infamous for being one of the roughest seas in the world. Heeding his warning, some of the passengers actually disembarked in New Zealand and are flying to meet us in Sydney (the “smart people.”) Those who stayed behind (the “not-so-smart people”) roughed it out. The experience was like being in a toy boat in a washing machine. Many times as we hit waves, it felt like we were hitting icebergs and would have the fate of the Titanic. It was a bit tough on the nerves and exhausting just to get around. The most requested thing on the menu from room service was consommé and crackers, and of course, a shot of something stronger.

We are happy to report that we are now back on smooth seas, as we should be for the duration of our trip. We arrive in Sydney in a few hours.

Extraordinary New Zealand

2009-04-05T20:12:00.000-07:00

Well, it is Monday morning for us (Sunday afternoon for you in the U.S.) and we are en route to Wellington, New Zealand’s capital, at the southwestern tip of the North Island of New Zealand

We spent the weekend cruising in and about other New Zealand locations. On Saturday, we were in the Bay of Islands at the northernmost part of the country. We arrived to a spectacular landscape of black, volcanic rocks and rugged cliffs jetting out from the sea. The Bay of Islands is home to more than 100 islands and numerous bays teeming with birds and marine life.

We disembarked the ship in Waitingi on Saturday morning and took a drive through the gorgeous and endless green rolling hills, with livestock (cattle and sheep) seen everywhere. Our destination was the Kerikeri Basin, considered to be the birthplace of the Maori, New Zealand’s indigenous people, who emigrated from Polynesia over 800 years ago. We had a memorable visit to the Maori Marae, a sacred place which marks the center of the Maori culture. Built of timber, it contains superb displays of woodcarvings and intricate flax weaving that tells of story of each local tribe through the centuries. We were welcomed at the Marae with a traditional Maori greeting (tribal warriors ready to kill us if we were not there in peace), and once we passed muster, were entertained by the children of the village with songs and dances of the local tribe (we snuck in only one photograph, as we were not allowed to take pictures due to the sacredness of the tribal ritual).

On Saturday night, the ship brought us further south to beautiful Auckland, New Zealand’s largest city with a population of one million people. Known as the “City of Sails,” Auckland boasts more boats per capita than any other city in the world. You could feel a real quality of life in this city, as no one lives far from the sea, and one out of every four households has a power or sailboat. In 2000 and 2003, the city was host to the famous America’s Cup event.

We departed the pier Sunday morning for a brief walk to the Viaduct Basin, the former base of the America’s Cup yachts. Our adventure this day was to sail one these racing boats through the Auckland Harbour, and for those able, to participate as a crew member. “Captain John” steered the boat at times while Joanna worked the grinders (putting up and down the sails). The boat reached a speed of 11 knots, and at most times, one side or the other was halfway in the water. It was a very exciting experience and one we will never forget.

Our visit to Auckland concluded with a visit to the Skytower, New Zealand’s tallest structure which stands 985 feet high. It is an imposing tower that includes a 24-hour casino, revolving restaurant, cafes and bars. From the observation deck, we took these gorgeous photos of Auckland Harbour and New Zealand’s landscape…

Rough Seas and Sad News

2009-04-03T00:21:00.000-07:00

Well the last two days at sea have been challenging to say the least. High winds and thirty-foot waves have been tossing us about. Anything that wasn’t nailed down is now broken…

But the seas got rougher this morning. Joanna awoke to news that her sister Linda’s husband, John Meier, had suddenly passed away at the young age of 48. All that is known at this time is that he had some swelling of the brain. An autopsy will hopefully give us more information. But, in the meantime, we cannot forget what a valuable addition he was to our family, and what a great husband he was to Linda, and what a terrific father he was to his eight-year old son, Charlie. All he ever wanted to be was a part of something and he became a part of our family, but only for too short a time. We will miss him dearly.

After shedding many tears throughout the day, we looked out the window to see this view… John, this heavenly sunset over the Pacific is for you. Rest in peace.

"Singing in the Rain" in Fiji

2009-04-01T00:15:00.001-07:00

Well, it had to rain sometime. For us, it happened to be in Fiji. We made the best of it and turned out to have a fine time.

Although Fiji numbers over 300 islands, we visited Suva and Lautoka in the past two days, which are both located on the largest island, Viti Levu. Suva was the first port on Tuesday (this was yesterday…as remember, we are a day ahead). Suva is the capital of Fiji and located on a hilly peninsula in the Southeast corner of Viti Levu. Its natural harbor offers port facilities to ships of all sizes. The waterfront district is a hodgepodge of high-rise office buildings, Colonial houses, government offices and parks. We decided to confront the poor weather and humidity late morning, but got intercepted by friends re-boarding the ship who had already done the same. They coaxed us into having lunch around the pool, and hearing of their travels, we felt we had seen enough and were having a better time with them. So we enjoyed Suva from the vantage point of the ship and enjoyed the entertainment of the Fiji police band down below on the dock.

This morning, we arrived in Lautoka. Lautoka is the second largest city after Suva and located on the island’s west coast. We got an early start (despite the pouring rain and 97% humidity) and drove south from the pier through the beautiful Sabeto Valley. We first visited a private estate located high on a hill overlooking the bay, owned by the individual who operates the main tour company on the island. There we enjoyed a lovely breakfast buffet of local fruits and juices, while taking in the views of the lush grounds and the bay in the distance.

Next, we journeyed to the “Gardens of the Sleeping Giant,” an orchid farm located at the foothills of the Nausori Highlands. It is renowned for its beautiful collection of orchids started in 1977 by the late Raymond Burr, star of Perry Mason (“Ironside”), to house his private collection of tropical orchids. The gardens showcase more the 2,000 different species of orchids and other exotic plants that can be seen as you tour the beautiful grounds. It was a very serene and lush setting. We even met a frog.

Our final stop was in Viseisei Village, regarded as the “foundation village” of Fijian heritage and culture. It is believed that the first settlers arrived here in a large canoe from Melanesia some 3,500 years ago (as in 1500 B.C.). It is also the place where the President of Fiji (and Chief of the Village) resides. Many dignitaries, including the Queen of England, Prince Charles and Princess Diana, and past American presidents have come to Viseisei Village to meet with the President of Fiji (the thatched room home in the background on the right is where he lives).

Fiji is known as one of the South Pacific’s most hospitable countries (with the locals calling the tourists “Family”) and we very much enjoyed our visit.

Crossing the International Date Line

2009-03-29T21:25:00.000-07:00

We are writing you on Monday, March 30, although it is Sunday for all of you. We completely missed our Sunday upon crossing the international date line and gaining a day. Add that to the 7 hours we are currently behind New York (to become 8 hours this evening) and it is 5:00 p.m. Monday here and midnight in New York Sunday heading into Monday morning. You think you’re confused…Joanna tried to book some spa appointments for Sunday and was told the day didn’t exist!

Whatever day it is, we have been mostly at sea. Upon leaving in Raiatea (in French Polynesia) on Wednesday evening , we arrived Saturday morning in Apia, Samoa. Samoa is the first independent nation of Polynesia, and home to the largest concentration of full-blooded Polynesians.

Located on Upolu Island, Apia is shaded by palms and huge umbrella trees, and has the appearance of a typical South Seas town. Traditional open-sided houses with thatched roofs on platforms of coral or concrete, also known as fales, can be seen everywhere. Nearly all the population wears the typical local dress: skirts, or lavalavas for men, and long, mumu-style dresses for women.

We decided to explore the island’s natural beauty and relaxed local lifestyle via a leisurely drive. We started along the island’s East Coast, making stops in the villages of Luatuanuu and Solosolo.

Next, we journeyed to the island’s Falefa Waterfall, from where there were also spectacular views of the ocean in the distance.Our tour concluded with a drive to the Piula Theological College and the Cave Pool, where a magnificent Gothic church stands guard over a pristine spring water pool. John took a dip in the pool while Joanna explored the seafront and some fresh local fruits.

We are to arrive in Suva, Fiji, tomorrow. For those of you following the itinerary, this is a diversion. Due to the tides, the Captain switched our visit to Lautoka and Suva, Fiji. We will be in Lautoka on Wednesday (your Tuesday, there we go again)…

Raiatea...our last stop in French Polynesia

2009-03-26T23:56:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Raiatea on Wednesday morning. Although not as popular as a vacation spot, Raiatea is the second largest of the Society Islands. According to Polynesian tradition, the island was once known as the Sacred Isle, or Havaiki. There are many legends that arise from mythology that lend a mysterious and magical atmosphere to the island’s various places of interest.

Raiatea shares a protected lagoon with the island of Tahaa and is totally surrounded by a reef, yet offers navigable passes to the open sea. Raiatea is also home to picture-perfect, flat island islets, or “motus,” scattered across the lagoon with beautiful white-sand beaches.

Uturoa is Raiatea’s capital and main port, and where the ship docked. We ventured out on a motorized outrigger from Uturoa south to the Faaroa Bay and Faaroa River. After navigating the magnificent lagoon and coastline, we descended into the shady realms of Faaroa River, which was much like a “jungle cruise” because of its thick foliage and jungle growth. Unlike Disney World, no rhinocerouses or alligators leaped out at us, and it was very peaceful (and surprisingly, no bugs!).

Afterwards, we ventured to one of the many motus scattered around the lagoon to have refreshments and swim in the shallow waters. It was a nice finale to our last day in French Polynesia.

Sunrise and Sunset over Bora Bora

2009-03-26T23:04:00.000-07:00

We travelled 160 miles northwest Monday night to arrive in time for a beautiful sunrise over Bora Bora on Tuesday morning...

It is easily understood why James Michener, author of Tales of the South Pacific, called Bora Bora “the most beautiful island on earth.” Emerald-green hills and crystalline blue lagoons highlight its spectacular beauty. It is comparable yet different from Moorea in that there are fewer mountains and most of the greenery does not extend as high in the sky.

Again we decided to explore via catamaran. We took a scenic cruise across Bora Bora’s Blue Lagoon, considered to be the world’s most beautiful lagoon, which is three times larger than the island’s land mass (about 60 miles in circumference) and has an unbelievable range of azure and turquoise colors.

The catamaran stopped at various spots in the lagoon for us to snorkel or have other experiences (to follow). At the first stop, we saw many, many colorful fish over a coral reef…

At the second stop, it was very shallow and not as inviting to get into the water. The boat crew dropped bait in the water to attract “friendly” sharks and sting rays (how do you keep the “non-friendly” ones away?). We were encouraged, if not thrown, in the water to enjoy this experience upfront. There were sting rays and sharks everywhere and they brushed right up against you (all those shadows in the water pictured below right are NOT rocks!). As you can see from the pictures below, John clearly is having a good time meeting a sting ray. However, Joanna was not so pleased when she got side-swiped by a shark immediately upon getting into the water! It was quite an experience and one we will never forget.

After getting back on the boat with all of our body parts intact, we travelled to a private island in the lagoon on a coral atoll, or “motu,” for a barbeque picnic and spent the afternoon on the beach and swimming in the lagoon.

We cleaned up back on the ship and later headed out to dinner at the world-renowned Bloody Mary Restaurant on the island (where the rich and famous have gathered for decades), catching this spectacular sunset over Bora Bora on the way.

Tahitian Sunshine

2009-03-23T23:27:00.000-07:00

Boy is it HOT…almost 90 degrees and 56% humidity. We spent the day in Papeete, Tahiti’s capital. It is French Polynesia’s only real city and a major South Pacific port of call for freighters, cruise vessels and yachts. It is not as pretty as Moorea and far more commercialized. We departed the ship early to take a private tour of the entire island, with the most memorable stop being the Arahoho Blowhole, one of the island’s major natural resources. It was formed thousands of years ago by a lava flow that, once cooled, created a channel that became the source of roaring plumes of water shooting into the air (see below)...

It was situated adjacent to a lovely black sand beach with gorgeous waves.

We also made a trip to the museum of Paul Gauguin, the famous French impressionist painter. Dedicated to Tahiti’s most famous resident, the museum was inaugurated in 1965 by the Singer Foundation of sewing machine fame. It is a memorial to the artist’s life on Tahiti from 1891 to 1901, when Gauguin created his most powerful canvasses highlighted by brilliant colors and exotic subjects. However, we were disappointed that the museum had no original works on display, but featured documents and photographs from the Gauguin era, along with some reproductions of his paintings.

We set sail again shortly, this time for Bora Bora, arriving at 8 am on Tuesday.

Finally...French Polynesia

2009-03-23T09:23:00.000-07:00

Well after three days at sea and and sailing through dark low clouds on the water Saturday night, we awoke yesterday morning to the beautiful sight of LAND and Moorea, French Polynesia!

We took an early morning tender to shore and embarked on a private catamaran cruise (water again!) to the picturesque Cook’s and Opunoho Bays. We sailed through beautiful blue lagoons and dropped anchor in one to snorkel in coral gardens. The weather was perfect and the scenery stunning, as you can see from the pictures.

Moorea is known as the “Magical Island” of French Polynesia and almost doesn’t seem real. It is often likened to James Michener’s mythological island of Bali Hai with its picture-perfect lagoons and gleaming white beaches surrounded by jagged mountains and volcanic spires. The island is unusually fertile and very green due to its tropical climate and rich, volcanic soil. The whole package is breathtaking.

After returning to shore from our catamaran trip, we had lunch in a local restaurant on the water and walked for hours along the coastline. Late afternoon we returned to the boat for a snooze in the shade (it was a very hot day) and in the evening had a lovely dinner in the ship’s exclusive wine-tasting restaurant, Le Champagne. This morning we have just set sail en route for Papeete, Tahiti, just 9 miles away across the Sea of the Moon. We are watching a lovely sunrise over the bay.

Hi from the high seas

2009-03-21T19:34:00.000-07:00

Just wanted to let you know we've been at sea for three days now.

We get to Moorea, French Polynesia at seven thirty tomorrow morning.

That's one thirty in the afternoon your time. It will be nice to see some land instead of this view from the balcony of our cabin.

Just to bring you up to date

2009-03-19T20:47:00.000-07:00

At the moment we are sailing to Moorea, French Polynesia. And, by the way, that volcanic eruption near Samoa did not affect us at all.

Last Saturday, we visited Hilo, Hawaii. It’s the biggest island, and still growing because of the flowing lava from Kilauea, the world’s most active volcano. We toured the island via SUV and saw waterfalls and many beautiful sights. We took a long walk on old lava flow at a black sand beach, and were about half a mile from where molten lava is still flowing into the sea. We were told it has added about 600 miles of island in the past twenty years.

We then drove to a privately run macadamia nut farm and had a delicious barbeque lunch and all the macadamia nuts we could eat.

We were supposed to go to Maui the next day, but that stop had to be cancelled because of high winds that would have made it impossible to dock there. So instead we headed straight to Christmas Island, Kiribati, about 2 degrees north of the Equator. Captain James Cook discovered it on Christmas Eve in 1777, and that’s why he named it Christmas Island (its official name is Kiritimati, pronounced “kee-rees-mass”, which means Christmas in the local language, Gilbertese. It is a totally unspoiled island and about six thousand people live there. They are very warm and friendly, and most walk around barefoot and live in shacks with no sides. They entertained us with a lot of native dancing and singing.

We were only on Christmas Island for a few hours, and but it gave us the flavor of the South Pacific and what is ahead in the coming weeks. Once back onboard ship, we learned that we were heading further south (crossing the Equator!), although that was not our intended direction. Turns out the ship’s captain made that choice so the high winds heading north wouldn’t spoil our barbeque on deck last night. So we made a big circle at sea through the night and are now heading toward French Polynesia.

And that brings you up to date.

Wow

2009-03-14T20:47:00.000-07:00

We had a wonderful and very moving visit to Pearl Harbor and the USS Missouri.

You cannot but help tears welling in your eyes when you visit that monument.

You almost feel the agony those heroes went thru when you sit through a well-produced movie showing the attack and our feeble and futile response. And then when you actually visit the USS Arizona memorial and stand over her lying in the water, well it gets to you. Fuel is still leaking from her to this day...about two quarts a day. It's almost as if it's the blood of the nine hundred men still entombed in the Arizona. It is truly hallowed ground.

Our visit to the USS Missouri was equally emotional. When you visit the inside of a ship similar to the ones the Japanese sank during the attack, and see how tight their quarters are, you really realize how terrible it must have been for those men caught below during that surprise attack.

And when you stand on the same spot where the Japanese signed the surrender documents on board that ship, your feeling of sadness somehow morphs into a feeling of near euphoria and tremendous pride in America.

forget what I said

2009-03-12T16:13:00.002-07:00

Hello again from the Pacific, and man we're rocking and rolling today. Waves about fifteen feet.
We'll be in Hawaii tomorrow morning.
Just wanted to tell you to forget about that website that shows movement of ships.
Turns out they hardly ever update it, so it's not worth your time.

Still sailing

2009-03-10T20:25:00.000-07:00

and sailing...and sailing. Man, the Pacific sure is wide. And deep too. We arrive in Hawaii Friday.

On the High Seas

2009-03-08T10:45:00.000-07:00

Well, we're on our way. Our big ship a tiny dot in the ocean.
Just wanted to let you know all is well.
No pictures because there's nothing to see. Except sea.

Los Angeles

2009-03-06T09:46:00.000-08:00

Hello from Beverly Hills.
We arrived safe and sound at LAX on Wednesday and checked into the hotel Montage. A terrific place by the way if you ever come here and need a place to stay.
We hit the high seas tomorrow. The next time you hear from us, we'll be on our way to Hawaii.
Aloha!

Where in the world are we?

2009-03-03T14:50:00.000-08:00

Here's something you might find kind of fun.
There's a website that keeps track of ships. Sailwx.info
Our ship is the Silver Shadow...part of the Silver Sea line.
Our call sign is: C6FN6.
If you're at all interested, you can see where we are anytime you like.

packing

2009-03-01T12:09:00.000-08:00

How the heck do you pack for three months at sea?
If you're a woman, you take every piece of clothing you have, on top of the new stuff that you went out and bought.
If you're a guy, you take a pair of underwear, some sox , a tux and a t-shirt.
Seriously, it's quite a challenge. Our plan is to ship a bunch of clothes to the ship, and carry the rest. We'll let you know how that works out.
Anyway, it's Sunday and we've been packing for two days. It's a chore but it's also part of the excitement of doing something we never dreamed we'd be doing. But WE'RE DOING IT.(are we nuts?)